This is the 3rd installment of my India travelogue, highlighting experiences of India through the eyes of my husband Matt on our first trip together to India last December. I started traveling solo to India in May 2000 for the biopharma industry. In December 2025 we had our opportunity to travel together. Earlier installments available here and here.
One non-negotiable part of the trip was our journey to Shimla, capital of Himachal Pradesh, in the foothills of the Himalayas via India’s iconic and romantic Toy Train. My husband had always wanted to take the Kalka-Shimla Toy Train; I had never had the time in my go-go years of business travel to stray so far off the beaten path.
My ambition for this trip was to introduce Matt to a country I love with as little stress and strain as possible. The reality was not that simple. Our travel coincided with incredible turmoil in India’s domestic air travel industry, complicating air travel and making even railroad trips uncertain due to the spillover effect of huge waves of flight cancellations. In the event, we had some very Indian experiences we did not bargain for on the leg of our trip between New Delhi and Shimla, known as Queen of the Hills.
The Kalka-Shimla Toy Train is the experience of a lifetime; getting to the Kalka train station is another. Given the circumstances, we arrived early and watched the monitors with trepidation as train delays mounted. We did have a car waiting in case we needed to switch plans to reach Karkar in time for the Toy Train departure at 3:45 am, fortunately this did not prove necessary. Trains heading north depart from the historic Old Delhi Train Station, not for the faint of heart. Old Delhi Station is loud, crowded and chaotic. On approaching the station one of the first things you see a large number of people awaiting their departures, stretched out in an orderly fashion, resting on blankets in front of the station. (Having lived in Manila, Phils, for 2 years, we have seen worse.)
Of course we were dropped with all of our luggage at the wrong platform and had to first identity the correct platform and then wrangle the bags. Of course there was no clean, comfortable and quiet waiting room. Of course the restrooms were filthy (and required payment). No matter, we managed to find the right platform, the train arrived in time for our transfer to the Toy Train, and we were able to rest on the overnight Delhi-Kalka train.
For the Delhi-Kalka leg of the trip we had reserved a sleeper – essentially two bunks with fresh linens. After the tumult of the Old Delhi Train Station this was an unexpected luxury. We were the only Americans on board and surrounded by a sweet array of newlyweds – Shimla is a longtime Indian honeymoon tradition. The newlywed were clearly surprised by how long we have been married and we joked with them that it was our Indian honeymoon. We must have seemed impossibly old to those who were so young and just starting their married lives! All in all the ride was a loud and not very restful experience, but not unpleasant. The major difficulty upon reaching Kalka was a series of stairs – up one platform and down the next – between us and the Toy Train. Here again with a little help from our fellow travelers we were able to get onboard.
Each cabin in the Toy Train comes with its own porter and we were treated to hot beverages and early morning breakfast (choice of veg or non-veg) on board. The seats on this narrow gauge train are the size of passengers 100 years ago – a little cramped for 21st century travelers. Seats adjust to face in either direction, depending on the best view. Interestingly enough, despite its role as a holiday destination, there is very little space on board the Toy Train for luggage. No matter. This being India, passengers piled up all of their bags on one row of seats. It was fine.
It was still dark when we boarded. As we headed north the sun rose, the train climbed and we enjoyed the amazing views en route to Shimla.
The trip to Shimla on the iconic Toy Train is a once in a lifetime experience that is very much worth taking. My photos don’t capture the full romance and beauty. (There are a slew of YouTube Toy Train videos.)
My next India travelogue post will share our experience in Shimla and environs. So I will leave you for now with a preview of the extraordinary beauty of the Himalayan foothills.
It took me nearly 25 years to make it to Shimla – if you have the opportunity please don’t wait as long as I did!